Azores Islands, an Off the Beaten Path Eco Paradise

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The Best Things To Do On Azores Islands

Last Updated on September 21, 2020

The Azores are a chain of spectacularly beautiful islands in the middle of the Atlantic. The archipelago has a distinctive culture shaped by its remote location. The architecture, cuisine, customs and spiritual practices of the Azores islands also reflect the islands' volcanic origins.

Believe it or not, fiery eruptions here millions of years ago created an eco-paradise. Just a few of the sights to behold on the Azores islands are emerald fields lined with blue hydrangea bushes, azure lakes surrounded by a ring of verdant mountains, thermal pools hidden in the jungle, and vast vineyards.

And you'll want to be sure to get offshore on the Atlantic for some up-close whale watching!

Each of the Azores islands has its own distinct personality. I’ll give you my take on the scenic attractions & cultural highlights of:

  • Sao Miguel, the biggest Azores island, and site of the capital, Ponta Delgada;\
  • Terceira, with the oldest city of the Azores island, which today is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and;
  • Pico, with its network of historic vineyards, which are also recognized by UNESCO.

Azores Islands At A Glance

This archipelago of nine Azores islands has earned top rankings for sustainable tourism by the likes of National Geographic Traveler. Thanks to conservative tourism policies, the Azores Islands have remained off-the-beaten-path, despite a location in the North Atlantic between the U.S. and Europe.

The Azores islands are an autonomous region of Portugal. It’s a destination close enough for a romantic getaway, while also offering plenty to happily fill an extended vacation with the kids.

The Azores islands first appear in the historical record in the 14th century, in Italian and Spanish maps. It’s believed that the islands of Santa Maria and São Miguel were discovered in 1427 by Portugues navigator Diogo de Silves. Colonization of the Azores islands began in the mid-15th century by settlers from Portugal, Spain, Northern France and Flanders. Santa Maria was the first to be settled, followed by Sao Miguel and then Terceira--whose name literally means “third island”.

Azores Islands
Photo: Meg Pier

Azores Islands Location, Weather and When to Go

The Azores islands are located about 2,400 miles from Boston in the U.S. and about 1,000 miles from mainland Portugal. Flights from Boston to the main city of Ponta Delgada on the island of Sao Miguel take four hours and 45 minutes. The journey from London to the Azores takes about three hours.

The location of the Azores islands means the climate is temperate and not tropical. The best months to visit are May through October. The temperature during these months will be in the 70s, which may sound rather low, but the humidity makes it feel hotter. During my two weeks on the Azores islands in late July and early August, we experienced an occasional shower and mistiness but by and large, it was all sunny skies.

The Azores islands have a very rich culture and one of the ways to access it is through attending one of the many festivals held over the summer. With a Portuguese heritage rooted in the Catholic faith, most of the celebrations are associated with religious holidays. Not surprisingly, there are also many fetes that honor the sea, as well as more mainstream music events.

Azores Islands | The Bom Jesus Festival on Pico
The Bom Jesus Festival on Pico Photo: Meg Pier

We visited at the height of the summer season and at no time experienced crowds. In fact, we often felt like we had incredibly magical places entirely to ourselves. Even when attending the Bom Jesus Festival on Pico, navigating the crowd of locals was easily manageable.

Read: Learn how the Azores isolated location has played a role in the development of its music.

Azores Islands | Location of Azores in Atlantic
Location of the Azores Islands in Atlantic. Source: Michigan State University

Azores Islands The Lay of the Land and Suggested Itinerary

Inspired to take a trip to this eco Eden? Currently, direct flights from the U.S. are available on SATA and depart from Boston. Smart money is betting that there will soon be more planes lifting off from American soil for this patch of paradise. Why? A consortium headed by Jet Blue founder David Neeleman recently acquired a 61% interest in TAP, a Portuguese-owned airline which now offers service to the Azores from Lisbon.

The Azores' nine islands are grouped into three clusters: Flores & Corvo to the west; Graciosa, Terceira, Sao Jorge, Pico and Faial in the middle; and Sao Miguel, Santa Maria and Formigas to the east.

Sao Miguel is the main island and where the primary airport serving the Azores is located, so its a logical starting point. We went from there to Terceira and then on to Pico and lastly Faial.

Once you reach the Azores, if you plan to do some island-hopping, you are likely going to need to get on a puddle-jumper or two. There is a ferry service but it is a long journey on the water between some of the more popular islands.

For example, there is currently just one ferry route running between Sao Miguel and Terceira operated by 1 ferry company – Atlanticoline. The Ponta Delgada to Praia da Vitoria ferry crossing operates weekly with a scheduled sailing duration from about 4 hours 30 minutes.

The exception is if you are going from Pico to Faial--these islands are very close together. Atlanticoline conducts this crossing operates up to 56 times each week with sailing durations from around 30 minutes, departing from the town of Madalena on the west coast.

Azores Islands
Atlanticoline is the major ferry service for the Azores. Photo: Atlanticoline

Inter-island flights are available only on SATA/Azores Airlines. A flight from Sao Miguel to Terceira takes about 40 minutes.

Azores Islands Sao Miguel

The whole of Sao Miguel is like one big nature conservatory. At a mere forty miles long and ten miles wide, the island is small enough that its sights are within easy reach of the capital of Ponta Delgada, a small modern city on the southern coast. All within a short walk of each other are sights such as the charming Campo do São Francisco square, the historic Church of Sao Jose, and the 16th-century Forte de São Brás.

Azores Islands
The iconic black and white facades of Ponta Delgada's architecture offset by blue skies. Photo: domjisch, flicker

Azores Island Lagoa Das Sete Cidades

Lagoa das Sete Cidades, or “Lagoon of the Seven Cities” is just one of Sao Miguel’s many geomorphic gems, and a forty-minute drive east from Ponta Delgada, through rolling hills of idyllic pastures seamed by criss-crossing rows of brilliant blue hydrangea bushes. I let out a gasp as I crested a hill and caught sight of adjoining lakes at the bottom of the crater below, one a brilliant jade, the other a translucent azure. A trail runs along the crater’s perimeter for those seeking a 360-degree perspective; hiking the circumference takes about three hours, and is one of the most beautiful vistas you’ll encounter during your Azores Islands travel.

Azores Islands | The stunning Lagoa das Sete Cidades
The stunning Lagoa das Sete Cidades. Photo: Meg Pier

Azores Island  Caldeira Velha

In the opposite direction from Ponta Delgada is Caldeira Velha, a secluded thermal pool beneath a cascading waterfall, reached by a path through a deep forest of cedar and laurel. Amidst prehistoric-looking vegetation, a handful of bathers lounged in steaming waters made rust-colored by iron-rich minerals.

Azores Islands | Bathers soak up the thermal waters of Caldeira Velha
Bathers soak up the thermal waters of Caldeira Velha. Photo: Meg Pier

Azores Islands and Unique Traditions Of Furnas

The enchanting village of Furnas is on the main island of Sao Miguel. Set inland from the southeastern coast, Furnas is nestled in a valley renown for both its verdant charm and active geology. Among Furnas' myriad manifestations of the area's volcanic origins are dozens of thermal mineral baths, each with different properties, and a mystical crater lake, Lagoa das Furnas.

Just beyond the lake, a road leads to a belvedere, from which there is a spectacular view of Furnas, looking like a Mediterranean-style Brigadoon, with the red-tiled rooftops of its whitewashed stone buildings visible through the atmospheric mist.

Azores Islands | View of Furnas
View of Furnas. Photo: Meg Pier

Further down the ribbon of road is a lunar landscape where muddy holes in the scorched earth belch plumes of smoke, and scores of men with hoes tend anthill-shaped mounds. At 12:30 pm sharp, pairs of the men tunnel through the piles of dirt to extract huge covered metal pots buried below; each duo carries off their bounty to a cheering crowd. The scene seems an unlikely setting for preparation of a cultural and gastronomic treat but no visit to Furnas is complete without savoring a lunch of Cozido das Furnas, a traditional Azores stew cooked underground for eight hours with volcanic heat.

Minutes from these subterranean ovens, the elegant dining room of Terra Nostra Garden Hotel provides a refined atmosphere to enjoy the earthy local dish of pork, beef, cabbage, kale, potatoes, carrots, chicken and chouriço sausage; the Art Deco gourmet restaurant also offers other fare from an eclectic menu.

Azores Islands
A must during your time on the Azores Islands is experiencing Cozido das Furnas straight from the volcanic subterranean ovens is served in style at the Terra Nostra Garden Hotel. Photos: Meg Pier

Azores Island Terra Nostra Gardens

After a leisurely lunch being pampered by the attentive wait staff, I walked off the calories with a long stroll through the adjacent botanical park. Terra Nostra Gardens was founded in the 18th century by Bostonian and American consul Thomas Hickling, who built his home “Yankee Hall” alongside a thermal spring.

Read: Meet Carina Costa, scientist and second generation gardener with Terra Nostra Garden!

Today, bathers young and old enjoy the warm waters of the expanded pool that is the park’s frontispiece. The Garden’s magical 30-acres teem with indigenous plant life as well as thousands of exotic species from all over the world, woven together with serpentine water canals, mysterious grottoes and a whimsical lily pond.

Azores Islands | Giant lily pads in pools at Terra Nostra Gardens
Giant lily pads in pools at Terra Nostra Gardens. Photo: Meg Pier

Azores Islands Terceira

The island of Terceira, a half-hour hop from Sao Miguel by plane, lays claim to being home to the oldest settlement of the Azores. Terceira is about 18 miles long and ten miles wide at its widest point. Its capital is Angra do Heroismo, which is located in the center of the southern coast. One of the biggest of the Azores islands, Terceira is also one of the most populated, with communities based mostly around the perimeter of the island. Inland is a quilt of verdant pasture lands that is quite beautiful to behold.

Azores Islands | Serra do Morião ou da Nasce Água, ilha terceira, Açores, Portugal.
Serra do Morião ou da Nasce Água, ilha terceira, Açores, Portugal. Photo: Trabalho meu, arquivo pessoal / Public domain

Historic Angra Do Heroismo

Angra Do Heroismo is a cool small city, and was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Center in 1983. The enclave, which was founded in 1478, was a wealthy port during centuries of trade between Europe, Africa and the Americas.  Angra was also the scene of more than its share of power struggles. It's name means "Bay of Heroes", in commemoration of its citizen’s successful defense against attack in 1829. Today, the area around its harbor is vibrant with brightly colored buildings in architectural styles that span from the Middle Ages to the Renaissance and Baroque.

Azores Islands | View of Angra do Heroismo from its marina.
View of Angra do Heroismo from its marina.

Forte de São Sebastião

Military commanders once kept a watchful eye on the horizon from Forte de Sao Sebastiao, a 16th century fortress that dominates the cliff tops above Angra do Heroismo. Today, the ancient fort is a pousada, which means "inn" in Portuguese. The term has been trademarked by a group who has converted historic properties such as castles, convents and monasteries into accommodations that showcase authentic Portuguese cultural landmarks. I've stayed in a few, including Sao Sebastiao and I have always found them to be elegant, very-well managed...and amazingly well-priced!

Azores Islands | The Terceira village of Biscoitos
View of Angra do Heroismo, the main city on Terceira and one of three capitals in the Azores. Photo: Meg Pier

Murals of Angra do Heroisimo

Are you an aficionado of street art? Then you'll love all the imaginative murals that adorn many of the buildings in Angra's historic district.

Azores Islands | Clever mural in downtown Angra do Heroismo
Clever mural in downtown Angra do Heroismo. Photo: Meg Pier

Jardim Duque da Terceira

In the center of Angra is a lush, manicured botanical garden teeming with exotic plants, many of which made their way to the Azores via the explorers commissioned by Portugal's Prince Henry the Navigator. The green space was created in the late 19th century and occupies land that was once part of the Jesuit College and the Convent of São Francisco. There's no admission to visit Jardim Duque da Terceira and it's a pleasant spot to take a break from sightseeing and spend a couple of hours relaxing. The Garden features an arbor-covered walkway, sidewalks inlaid with mosaic designs and has ascending levels up 250 steps to the mirador that offer a bird's eye view of Angra.

Azores Islands | Jardim Duque da Terceira
Jardim Duque da Terceira.

Admire the View from Monte Brasile

Across the Bay of Angra is Monte Brasile, a two-mile wide peninsula that is about seven stories above sea level. This promontory, which is volcanic in origin, makes for fantastic views of the city of Angra do Heroísmo to the east and the Bay of Fanal to the west. On particularly clear days, it is possible to view São Jorge and Pico. We drove through the Fortress of São João Baptista and along a curving and narrow one-way road and pulled off at various points to admire the vistas. For those who prefer to hike, plan on at least a half day.

Azores Islands | Monte Brasile
One of the many splendid views from Monte Brasile. Photo: Meg Pier

Lava Beach Of Biscoitos

In Terceira’s village of Biscoitos, lush green hills roll gently down to an other-worldly beach where visitors can bath in pools of aquamarine water surrounded by strange rock formations of black lava. The Azores’ volcanic origins means white sand beaches are virtually non-existent but the fantastical geology makes for memorable swims.

Azores Islands swims
The lava beach at Biscoitos on Terceira. Photo: Meg Pier

Algar Do Carvao

In the center of Terceira, it’s possible to get up close and personal with an extinct volcano by descending into the belly of Algar do Carvao, a cave that is more than 425 feet deep and features a massive "cathedral" dome, a subterranean lake and artistic patterns on the wall created by ancient gases.

 

Algar do Carvao Cave
The main entrance to the Algar do Carvao, as seen from with the cave. Photo: Vitor Oliveira from Torres Vedras, PORTUGAL / CC BY-SA

Pay Homage to the Imperios

Across Terceira there are about 70 small chapels known as “impérios”, which translates as "empires". These are built by brotherhoods of the Empire of the Divine Holy Spirit, an Azorean Catholic religious organization inspired originally by an Italian theologian in the beginning of the 13th century. Two centuries later, his beliefs were brought to the Azores by the Franciscan who were early colonizers. The central tenets of the Empire of the Holy Spirit are hope; faith in the divine; egalitarianism; solidarity and charity; and autonomy from the church.

In the latter part of the 19th century the elaborate “impérios” came into popularity, funded in large part by members of the diaspora. The impérios architectural design evolved from the faithful's rituals and the distinctive, brightly colored facades are part of Terceira'’s identity.

impérios on Terceira.
One of the almost 70 colorful impérios on Terceira. Photo: Meg Pier

Soak up the Sun at Praia de Vitoria

Praia de Vitoria is the second biggest city on Terceira, encompassing about 62 square miles on the island's northeast. It's about 12 miles from Angra, and has the only big sand beach on Terceira.

 Praia de Vitoria
Terceira's best sandy beach can be found at Praia de Vitoria. Photo: Meg Pier

Experience Authentic Fishing Village of São Mateus da Calheta

Just 2.5 miles west of Angra is the old fishing village of São Mateus da Calheta. The harbor is well worth a visit as you get a real sense of community watching the fisherman mend their nets and kids doing cannonballs off the pier. We noticed several religious niches along the waterfront bearing testimony to the active faith that is part of daily life for Azoreans, especially those who earn their living on the often perilous ocean.

Photo: Meg Pier

Scenes of São Mateus da Calheta's harbor.
Scenes of São Mateus da Calheta's harbor. Photo: Meg Pier

Chill at Mata da Serreta Nature Park

Mata da Serreta Nature Park is about a half hour's drive from Angra do Heroismo. This forest of cedar, laurel and eucalyptus trees is part of the Nature Park of Terceira, a protected area established in 2011 that encompasses about 22% of the island. The Park has picnic areas with elaborate fountains of carved stone and trails through the slopes of Serra de Santa Barbara. This mountain is another inactive volcano, and at 3,349 feet in height, is the island's highest point. We practically had the place to ourselves and it was a rather magical experience meandering through giant ferns lit by shafts of light filtering through the thick canopy.

Mata da Serreta Nature Park is a serene place to commune with nature.
Mata da Serreta Nature Park is a serene place to commune with nature. Photo: Meg Pier

Witness Tourada à Corda

Tourada à corda means "bullfight by rope" and it is a pastime that has been celebrated on Terceira since at least 1622. We had noticed small stone bullrings in a few places as we traveled around Terceira but Tourada à corda is an event that is typically held in the center of a village along a designated road. The bull fights are held between May 1 and October 15, usually between 4:00 - 6:30 p.m. We learned of one being held in a village not far from Angra and decided to attend, as we were assured no harm came to the bulls. The popularity of the occasion was clear by the massive number of cars lining the road into the small town and throngs of revelers streaming down the main street.

Tourada a corda Azores
Photo: Algor7 / CC BY-SA

The bull was controlled by a rope around its neck and herded by four "shepherds", men who wear black felt hats, white sweaters and gray pants. The bull's horns are capped to minimize the risk of anyone being gored. Spectators crowded behind existing stone walls or barricades that were erected along the street. The atmosphere was of a block party--hordes of people had barbecues going and enjoyed refreshments. It appeared that anyone who felt like it could run into the street and get within close proximity to the bull--this was invariably done by young men who likely had consumed some liquid courage. All in all, the Tourada à corda we saw was relatively tame. There were a few moments when the bull gave a snort and made a bit of a charge, but he generally seemed to be patiently enduring the antics of testosterone-fueled daredevils.

Tourada a corda Azores
Photo: Luca Nebuloni from Milan, Italy / CC BY

Azores Islands Pico

Another puddle-jump away is Pico. The island is named for the enormous volcanic cone in its center, which dominates the skyline. Pico is the second largest of the Azores islands and is 28 miles long and about ten miles wide. While it's a compact size, we spent four days here and could have stayed longer!

Azores Islands
While visiting the island of Pico on the Azores Islands, Mt. Pico can be seen from any point on the island. Photos: Meg Pier

World Heritage Vineyards

The fertility of the black earth here was cultivated to grow grapes centuries ago—the viticulture proved so distinctive that Pico's vineyards were designated by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site in 2004.

The intensity of the magnificent black crusty soil gives birth to life and the recognition that with enough time, scorching fires yield abundance. Vivid green growth emerges from cracks and crevices, and luxuriant vineyards sprawl across the island.

One of the many vineyards on Pico, which cover more than 2,000 acres on the island.
One of the many vineyards on Pico, which cover more than 2,000 acres on the island. Photo: Meg Pier

Santo Amaro Craft School

And in the tiny village of Santo Amaro, that connection is shared by twin sisters Consaysons and Alzira Neves, who founded the Santo Amaro Craft School in 1986, A loving homage to Pico's legacy of centuries-old craft traditions, the school overflows with the bounty of the sister's creativity: embroidery, lacework, flowers made from fish scales and hydrangea, dolls made from straw and corn husks, traditional costumes all made by hand.

Alzira invited us into her home next door to the museum and shared with us her personal collection of pieces she has made over the years. The extent of Alzira's creativity was astonishing, invigorating and inspiring.

The Santo Amaro Craft School
The Santo Amaro Craft School beautifully presents the way of life on Pico. Photo: Meg Pier

Watch: Visit Pico in this video, and connect with local traditions tied to the rich, fertile, potent power of the black earth and a quest for connection with the divine.

Bom Jesus Festival

The awe-inspiring forces that made all that rich, hard black lava rock are unpredictable, and so on Pico, most people seek a connection with a comforting, protective divinity...and with each other. At the Bom Jesus festival, held in the village of Sao Mateaus each August 6, you sense the profound faith and spirit of community that is part of life on Pico.

Bom Jesus Festival on Pico.
Bom Jesus Festival on Pico. Photo: Meg Pier

Whale Watching

Once an epicenter of the whaling industry, Pico is now a base for eco-tours that hunt whales for communal rather than combative purposes. Espaço Talassa in the tiny village Lajes about 40 minutes west of Pocinho Bay offers excursions on 29-foot, Zodiac-style vessels--a far more intimate experience than the large vessels used for such excursions in the U.S. The company, founded in 1989 by a former whaler and a French sailor just two years after the whaling trade went extinct, employs both ancient tradition and the latest technology to locate whales, using spotters in observation towers as well as underwater microphones.

Be prepared for a wild ride. After receiving word from a spotter stationed high in the hills along the coast, our skipper made a beeline four or five miles out to sea at high speed. The bouncy ride atop the waves was well worth it—eventually, the engines were cut and we drifted alongside a pod of more than a dozen female sperm whales, which each average 50 feet in length and weigh about 20 tons. For twenty minutes or so, we rocked in reverent silence, feeling privileged to be in the company of these peaceful giants.

For some exhilaration on your Azores Islands holidays, get up close and personal with whales off the coast of Pico. Photos: (l-r) Espaco Talassa; Meg Pier

Whether you need to decompress or rev up your energy level, there are different kinds of Azores islands experiences to replenish your spirit.

Are you an island lover? Then you might enjoy these destinations!

 

Azores Islands - Logistics & Lodging

Transportation

You'll need a rental car for your Azores tour. Check out the best options on RentalCars for rentals on each island you visit on your trip.

Driving is easy and downright idyllic compared to the congestion of Boston! The roads are good, there is very little traffic and the signage is plentiful and clear.

I highly suggest you book your car in advance. We failed to do this and there were none available at all while we were in Sao Miguel! The good news is that you can negotiate with taxi drivers to take you on an un-narrated tour. Agree on the locales to be visited and a price before you embark. Taxis are easily found in downtown Ponta Delgada near the waterfront.

Lodging:

In Ponta Delgada on Sao Miguel, we found the Hotel Marina Atlantico, a gleaming glass landmark located across from the harborfront promenade and marina to be the perfect base—and where I enjoyed quite possibly the best massage I’ve ever had!

On Terceira, the 16th century Forte de Sao Sebastiao is now a luxury retreat, part of Portugal’s pousada system—historic hotels housed in former castles, convents, palaces and fortresses.

Ensconced between a swath of luxuriant vineyards and the aquamarine surf of a dramatic shoreline is guest house Pocinho Bay, the labor of love of two former sociology professors from Lisbon. This exclusive sanctuary of six suites opened 12 years ago after an extensive renovation of the former winery’s seven basalt structures, each exquisitely decorated with exotic art from the proprietors’ own travels to locales ranging from Guatemala to Malaysia.

Tours

We recommend GetYourGuide for Tours. They offer highly unique tours with Local Guides.

Recommended Tours for Your Azores Holidays

 

Don’t Forget Travel Insurance

Travel insurance will protect you against illness, injury, theft, and cancellations. I never ever go on a trip without it. I recommend  World Nomads Travel Insurance.

 
A shorter version of this article first appeared in Long Island Pulse Magazine, May 2017
 

Disclosure: Please note that some of the links in this Azores Holidays article may be affiliate links, and at no additional cost to you, BCD earns a commission if you make a purchase. Your support is much appreciated and helps to keep the site going.

RECOMMENDED TOURS ON THE AZORES ISLANDS

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2 thoughts on “Azores Islands, an Off the Beaten Path Eco Paradise”

  1. Isolated islands but connected to the world by the sea makes for a culture that is unique but accessible. The natural beauty and the Azoreans connection to it make for a magical experience like nowhere else!

    Reply
  2. We love Lisbon and have even contemplated moving there permanently amidst the current chaos in our
    country. We have never been to the Azores and I think we need to plan a trip there immediately; surely it will only heighten our desire to move to Portugal! From your photos, the terrain is spectacular and there seems to be so much to do! The monastery looks like a spectacular place to stay! Thanks for the great itinerary!

    Reply

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